MKIII VR6:  ABS Pump and Module Removal and Replacement


My ABS light was on and stayed on while driving.  I located a used hydraulic pump and module unit (you can separate them, I think) and replaced the whole unit.  My car is a 1998 GTI VR6 with 111,000 miles equipped with the TEVES 20 GI ABS system.   This system controls the ABS/EDL (Anti-lock brakes and Electronic Differential Lock).  On cars ‘96+ (without a brake proportioning valve), the module also controls front/rear brake bias.  Apparently, the module is known to fail on many other European cars including Volvo and Seat.  A picture of the engine bay is below.

 The numbers and codes from my ABS module  are:

        Component:     ABS/EDL ITTAE20 GI V00

        Module:            3A0 907 379 E

        Code:              03704


Tools required:

  1. VAG-COM Diagnostic tool or Ross-Tech
  2. T-25 Torx driver
  3. 11mm line wrench (or flare nut)
  4. 13mm line wrench (or flare nut)
  5. 10mm box wrench
  6. New hydraulic pump and module
  7. Brake parts cleaner
  8. 2-3 liters of brake fluid
  9. Brake bleeder or a clean glass jar and some clear tubing for 2 man bleeding

 The Symptoms:

ABS light on and stays on while driving.  I used the VAG-COM to read the fault codes (DTC) and got this Code:

 “Fault code 01276: Hydraulic Pump - V64 Signal outside specifications”

 Things to check first:

There are 2, 15-amp, fuses at the top of the fuse/relay board.  Make sure that they are not blown.  Also there is another fuse in the main row of fuses that is related to ABS – check that one, too.

 The procedure: (removal)

  1. First, use the VAG-COM tool and write down the numbers and codes for your control module.  You will need this later!
  1. I suggest you do this on a cool engine, or you will likely burn your forearms.  I would also recommend jacking the car up and placing it on jack stands at all four corners, since it makes it a lot easier to bleed later with all four wheels removed. 
  1. Disconnect the battery (both terminals, negative first) then remove it, as you will need the room. 
  1. Drain the brake reservoir using a turkey baster, or open a bleeder screw and allow the fluid to run until the reservoir is empty. Discard the old fluid; you should use fresh fluid to refill the system.
  1. Place a rag or towel under the brake master cylinder as you will lose some fluid and you won’t want it to sit on the CV boot.
  1. Loosen all 6 lines running into the ABS.  The two top lines are 13mm and the 4 bottom lines are 11mm.  Unscrew all of the lines and move them out of your way (they won’t move far because they are not flexible). 
  1. Disconnect the wiring harness from the module.  It is located on the outside of the module.  To disconnect it, you must pull the small “T” shaped handle toward the front of the car.  It will move about 1 inch then you can move the plug out of your way.
  1. Use the T-25 Torx to loosen the 3 brass colored bolts on the upper surface of the ABS unit.  The front one is easy to see.  It is the size of a nickel and brass with a rubber bushing under it.  The other 2 are in the back corners but you can get to them fairly easily.  You don’t need to remove the screws from the mounting bracket. It is easier to access the rear bolts if you disconnect the brake fluid level sensor on the reservoir above the ABS unit.
  1. Once the screws are unbolted GENTLY wiggle the unit forward.  Be careful not to kink or bend the brake lines while removing it.  There are a wiring harness and a coolant hose that pass in front of the ABS unit. If you have a helper, have him hold the harness and hose out of the way.
  1. At this point you can separate the module from the hydraulic pump assembly and swap with the new part.  I replaced both parts (pump and module)

  1. To install a new unit, simply reverse the removal process. 
  1. After installing the unit and attaching all the lines (don’t over-tighten) and plugging in the wiring harness you will need to refill the brake fluid reservoir and bleed the brakes.  Start with the rear passenger caliper; then do the rear driver, front passenger, and then front driver.  After you bleed the brakes, you will notice that you won’t have a very good pedal feel (i.e., it will go to the floor). That’s OK; you’ll correct this later.  Be sure to keep the reservoir topped up during the bleeding process to keep air out of the lines.
  1. Re-install the battery.
  1. Use the VAG-COM to check the coding of your new ABS module. The data should match the data you copied down in step 1. If not, re-code the module as necessary.
  1. Then cycle the pump using the VAG-COM software.  To do this, choose “ABS Brakes” from the main menu.  Then select “Test Output” and follow the on-screen instructions.  The computer will cycle the pump, and then test each of the valve positions, one corner at a time.  After this is done, you should have good brake feel again. I’ve heard that running the pump for more than 30 seconds or so could lead to the pump overheating and susbsequent damage, so accomplish this procedure reasonably quickly.


  1. I re-bled my brakes to get any air released by the pump, cleaned the calipers with brake parts cleaner, and Voilà! Your ABS light should be out and your ABS will work again. During the first road test, I noticed that the pedal was slightly mushy and had slightly greater travel. This went away after driving the car for a day or so and became very firm and confident feeling. YMMV.